A Diary Entry – Pedal Hard – Laugh Out Loud

A brief intro of myself. My name is Alan Melville, I’ve been riding bikes since I was a young boy, mainly touring, but also a bit of racing. I did my first “long distance” tour, a ride from Bruce Rock to Northam, at the age of 13. My brother accompanied me - he was 11. I caught the bug and by the age of 15 I had saved up enough to go to Tassie. I did this with my mate Steve Collings, also 15, spent 10 weeks there with $120, a long time ago….I’m now nearly 46. Since then I’ve ridden around Australia, (the road wasn’t completely bituminized, I pushed my bike, a track racer, 600 odd Km….) the North Island of NZ and through the north of India. There have been numerous small rides in between.

For the Munda Biddi ride I used a Specialized Epic and a BOB Ibex trailer. The bike is fitted with a Rohloff 14 speed hub (www.rohloff.com.au) geared for the trailer. I used tyres called “Specialized Armadillo” a very strong tyre.

I also have a Bluetooth GPS that links to a PDA (Imate PDA 2K EVDO) running OziExplorer (www.oziexplorer.com.au ) and 1:50000 maps of the South West (produced by Greg Harewood. 0402141197)

I also have a Garmin GPS. I carry a cdma phone (the PDA) and for better reception in remote areas I have an “ugly stick” car antennae fitted to the trailer. I also have a satellite phone and an EPIRB. To power all this stuff I have a 20 Watt solar panel coupled to a 14AH lead acid battery. (Somewhere in there I fit food and a spare pair of jocks…) Trailer weight was 45 Kg, and the bike also had 10 Kg of water in the front panniers. This ride was a shake down for a remote area ride later in the year. (Nov)

I had heard this ride was very pleasant and was looking forward to it.

I spoke to Ian at the Munda Biddi foundation who had said he‘d done it a couple of months prior & found it very hard. He had used panniers. I must confess I thought “oops” (a thought I often have when I suspect things are going a bit pear shaped. . . . . ) I hadn’t been on the bike for 6 odd weeks so I set out to do some training that consisted of a ride from the Witches Hat in Northbridge to the East Perth station, piling bike and trailer on the train to Midland and then riding to Mundaring via the Southern Bridal trail. (Got overtaken by some dude with no gear, but didn’t have the necessary breath reserves to curse him!!) It was a two hour ride from Midland. Training ride over….

Next morning I started the ride, according to the info sign in Sculpture Park, this was going to be a nice ride, bit of “doddle” really….

From here italics are unedited journal entries,

Thurs 7/9/06

Left Johnno’s place and rode to Sculpture Park, took a photo of the “rig”, left there at 9.50 am. It was a freezing morning, 10.2 degrees with a strong wind. Rode toward the Weir. Had trouble with the front panniers and repaired them. Coming out of Helena valley nearly killed me, had to push a bit of the way, took the touring route and was pleased I did, had lunch at Bib track junction. Really enjoyed the single track section after Mundaring Weir Rd. Found some of the hills hard work. Enjoyed some of the areas up to Pickering Brook. Didn’t like the slog after P. Brook, Wind was v strong & v cold. A hut around P. Brook would have been nice, I found the last 10 or so Km too much, especially the last 2K's. Ate like a horse on arrival. Temp is dropping, 11.4 degrees. 8:08 Pm and bed time. Hut is great but catches the wind.

Stats

Moving time 4hr 35m

Moving average 9.3

Stop time 2hr 39m

Overall average 5.9

Max speed 54.5

Odometer 42.76

Day 2 Friday

Slept very well last night despite the cold. Thank goodness for Johnno's

Bivi bag & Sue’s silk liner. Left at 9. 50 am. Bit hard to get moving ‘cause of the cold !!!. There were some beautiful sections thru to the Canning valley, it is a huge downhill into the valley, coming out the other side was hard work because of the pea gravel and gradient. The trailer can make it hard work. About 500 m from the Albany Hwy my front pannier broke so I got onto road and then peddled down to Gleneagle crossing came into the hut, that was very pretty and v easy. Hut is in a lovely location, sheltered and lots of bird life. Made running repairs to pannier, will see how it holds up. All in all a good day, the gluets (buttocks ) are feeling it !!! Was v cold & drizzly this am. Wind is v cold

Stats

Moving time 3hrs 25min

Moving Ave 10.2Km

Stopped time 1hr 37min

Overall average 6.9Km

Max speed 34Km (Albany hwy )

Odometer 34.79Km

Day 3 Saturday

Slept well in Wungong hut. Was by myself again. The ride from Wungong to Jarradale was very, nice, more of what I expected from the trail. It followed an old logging railway for the majority of the time. Arrived in Jarradale at 12:15 and had lunch at the cafe as you come into town. Went and had a look at the campsite, looked abandoned and was eerily quiet, didn’t like it. Left town at 3pm and continued towards Dandalup dam. Some of the hills were huge particularly coming out of the Serpentine Valley, it was harder than the weir hill, got a flat on the front tire just to add insult to injury, tube valve stem failed as I was pushing up the hill. Kept pushing the bloody thing till I got to the top then changed the tube.

Stats

Moving time 4hr 24

Moving average 10.9

Stopped time 3.59

Overall average 5.7

Total time 8hrs 24

Odometer 47.87 km

Day 4 Sunday 10/9/06

Left at 9.40ish with the intention of getting to Dandalup hut, about 20Km by map. Some of the track is torn up by motor bikes and makes for hard work as it is loose pea gravel & sand. There were some very steep sections today not to mention the last hill before the hut which I seemed to go straight over and not around. The erosion on the hill down to the hut is bad. My panniers finally bit the bullet today. Thinking I may quit tomorrow, ride back to Perth and try and fix them. Weather is still cold.

Stats

Moving time 1hr 46 min

Moving average 10kph

Stopped time 56min

Overall average 6.5 kph

Total time 2hrs 45min

Max speed 40.3

Odo 17.75 Km

Monday

Spent the day at the hut. It poured down with rain last night and it was freezing this am. I swear these huts are built on a turntable with a weather vane to face them into the breeze…. Rained a lot this morning but cheered up towards the end of the day. Barometer started to pickup, looking hopeful for tomorrow… It’s freezing cold with the wind chill and when I go and pickup the car in Perth I’m going to buy a better sleeping bag….Don’t life’s priorities change when one is on the “trail”…

Tuesday

Left nice and early, 8.30ish, Still cold but a lot clearer. Had some nice sections today but also had some criminal uphill slogs, I suspect the blokes who put this trail can’t spell “contour” ‘cause they sure as hell can’t follow one…. In one section I was following a perfectly good well graded track beside a creek when, for no explicable reason the track turned, went up a hill to a saddle, followed the contour around the hill, promptly went halfway down said hill, followed contour, then went back up to a position about 300M from the initial position - I hit the saddle, don’t you think I wasn’t spewin… Arrived In Dwellingup knackered.

Wednesday

Left early, “its all downhill to Pinjarra” they said, “they” drive cars... and don’t see the uphill sections, but the final run down to Pinjarra was great. Tires were great, could only put in 8o psi as the compressor was at max capacity…. (Fitted the Fat Boys, road tyres.) Tried to get train but can’t get bike on in Pinjarra.? Flat nearly all the way to Armadale, 8 Ks of up & down just out of Bicton. Hit Armadale at 1410hrs.

Stats

Moving time 4:37

Moving Ave 18.2Km.

Stop time 1:42

Overall ave 13.3

Total time 6:20

Odo 84.38

Max speed 62.2

Upon arrival at Dwellingup I had to ride back to Perth as my car was being repaired and due to pickup. I bought the sleeping bag, as threatened (got a -5 +5) and slept like a toasty log for the remainder of the trip - worth every cent! I had other business to take care of and finally got dropped off on Thursday 21/9 at 6pm in the evening by my fiancé, Kathleen.

Friday 22/9

Left Dwellingup around 9am. Rode thru some lovely tracks, very nicely contoured thru the hut. Arrived at the Bidjar Ngoulin hut at 1:15pm ish, it was very cold at the hut and I was feeling good so I decided to carry on to Logue Brook Dam. Arrived at 6pm. There were a few hills, the last one was a killer, quite short but very steep. After that it was an easy run to the dam wall and around to the camp site. I was pleased to see the entrance to the van pk after a long day.

First half was great and 2nd half not too many hills.

Stats

Moving times 5 hr 29m

Moving ave 11.5

Stopped times 2hr 37m

Overall ave 7.8

Total times 8hr 8m

Odo 63.19

Saturday 23/9

Stayed in the bunk house last night. A chap called John Reid was there. He’s also riding the trail North to South from Jarradale with four other friends. They’re riding thru to the road next to the Yarri hut as they live in the area. We had a great chat. They left before me but I caught them up and John rode with me until he turned off. I found the day hard and was exhausted by the time I reached Yarri, which I was very pleased to see. I must say I recon it’s the best hut so far, as the orientation to the valley is different, but the wind had dropped as I arrived. There were some killer hills today and the second detour had two huge hills. I also find the country on the whole looks pretty much same all the way thru, there are pockets of course that look different and are very nice.

Stats

Moving time 4hr 27min

Moving ave 10.5

Stopped time 2hr 5m

Overall ave 7.1

Total time 6hr 33m

Max speed 44.3

Odo 46.86

Sunday 24/9

Left Yarri around 9am. Rode through some lovely tracks, uphills were at a minimum and there were some lovely long downhill’s. The uphills I encountered were well graded, it makes a huge difference to have gentle gradients on the routes. The tracks were in good condition and even though it was Sunday I didn’t see any motor bikes, in actual fact there was very little evidence of them on this section of the track. There were some very picturesque sections of track today. Got into Collie at 2:30 pm, rang Kathleen to arrange a pickup and left with her at 8pm ish.

Now, after having completed the ride and sitting here in the comfort of my lounge room I have some very fond memories of the ride. This is quite different to the state of mind at the end of an individual day when the foremost priority was to get a hot drink and some carbs into my poor beaten and battered body… with thoughts such as, “Bugger the bike, it’s a bloody liability, I wouldn’t be craving hot choc and musilie bars if I didn’t own it… I’d be at home in my warm lounge or out in my sea kayak…don’t have to contend with hills in a sea kayak….”

Seriously I, in retrospect, enjoyed the ride and believe that WA has a wonderful resource in the Munda Biddi.

There are some points though I feel need to be raised, some of which would be great to get feedback on from the relevant authority and I would like to extend the right of reply by same.

Trailer versus panniers.

Good panniers and a good trailer are pretty much the same price. A trailered bike at low speeds has a tendency to have a mind of its own, particularly if turning a tight corner when pushing. Panniered bikes can also become unstable at low speeds and sometimes tend to catch on obstacles. Trailered bikes need to kept under tighter control down steep hills. Both units need to be packed correctly with weight low for stability. BOB trailers are exceptionally easy to disconnect from the bike. For pushing the trailered bike over rough terrain a backpack instead of the standard pack can be used, allowing one to wear the pack and pushing, for all intentions and purposes, an empty and light bike. A trailer is easy to use on a dual suspension bike.

I found the first days ride too long and wonder why the hut is where it is. Maybe a more gentle route is possible for tourers.

For those amongst us who would like to experience a night on the trail but are strapped for time or have younger kids I couldn’t help but recommend getting dropped off at Gleneagle, riding through to Wungong hut, about 3 km, staying the night and then riding through to Jarradale next day and being picked up from there. It is a beautiful ride with nice gradients and only a couple of hills. Hills are found mainly getting up to and on to Bulldozer road. The total distance is about 30km.

For those who want to do the whole trail unsupported I’d recommend Autumn or Spring, as track conditions would be firmer. In Summer you may find water an issue and in Winter one tends to freeze ones “butt” off, doesn’t make for a “Wholesome” experience….

When I did the ride it was very cold and windy, this is difficult weather to dress for as one tends to sweat heavily whilst riding and pushing uphill, and then faces wind chill issues going downhill. I have found the best gear for this are Merino thermals, one can sweat into these for days and still not have to worry too much about odour issues, unlike synthetic thermals. There are two brands I use, Driza-Bone and Icebreaker. The Driza-Bone is a finer wool but a looser fit, I find the long sleeved Driza-Bone handy as the sleeves pull up easily. A front zipped fleece is handy as well, as it’s easy to zip down at the bottom of a hill and zip up prior to hurtling to ones impending doom, driven onward by a crazed trailer on the downward journey….

Now, about that “recalcitrant so & so” who can’t spell “contour”. I rang and had a very informative chat with the tracks and trails unit in CALM (or whatever they call it these days) and it turns out they can spell it, it starts with a K…(LOL)*.

They have a lot of issues to contend with and may, hopefully, be able to address them in the future. Maybe a reply here would be informative.

Tyres are an important part of the cycling arsenal, just as one would buy the best boots one can afford, so one should buy the best tyres and correct tubes. I’ve used “Specialized Armadillos” quite extensively, both in the Pilbara and down South here, and as of yet I’ve failed to have a problem. I had a valve stem failure on the track, a combination of cheaper tubes and incorrect pressure, in this case too low, in order to get a little more floatation in the sand.

When riding off road be prepared to take considerably longer to cover any given distance as opposed to road touring. As an example, it took me 4 days of riding to get to Dwellingup on the trail and I then covered the 85 km back to Armadale in a moving time of 4hr 37min. To do this distance on the track would either take a very dedicated long day but more likely 2 days, especially with what I carry…. Which leads to another point, how much of what to carry?

One has to remember things like water and fuel for stoves as this is a fuel stove area only. In small towns it’s not always possible to obtain the required fuel for a particular stove and for this reason I strongly recommend a multi fuel stove, if they sell petrol “you got a cuppa happening”

and if they don’t it’s easier to scrounge than Meths etc.

Water on this ride in the cooler months isn’t so much of an issue as the tanks are likely to be fairly full and ground water is plentiful. I read, at one of the huts, “Boil water vigorously for one minute” Two points: one, water when it’s boiling, is “vigorous” boiling is boiling, and two, one should boil water for three minutes and this is increasingly longer as one rises significantly in altitude. There are also some “greeblies” that aren’t killed off with boiling, namely Giardia, a Protozoan parasite, this can only be safely removed with filtration that is done at 2 microns absolute. Don’t stress about it, it’s medically treatable .

On of the issues I found with the top end of the ride was the apparent monotony of country, this is, of course untrue, but I suspect it appears this way because of the effort in riding (or pushing…) up the hills and concentrating coming down them. There is a lot of focus on the front wheel at times.

It’s a pity, as on a touring route the idea is to enjoy the country one is riding through, we’re not out there wholly and souly for the “thrill of the ride”.

As one pulls further South past Dwellingup the easier it becomes and it feels that there are longer down gradients than up gradients. Whether this is correct I’m not entirely sure, I would however recommend the ride be done North to South as the most difficult section is tackled and completed whilst fresh. It may also be a psychological boost for a lot of people knowing most of the killer hills are over.

I hope the trail makers, as they continue South, learn to spell “Contour”. For end-to-enders it’ll make a huge difference and this will also have huge flow on effects for the trail in general. I feel, if Australia follows suit behind the USA and Europe in regards to off road touring, namely, becoming a popular past-time, the trail will have a very positive impact on the communities it passes through.

I would like to mention the huts, which are of an extremely high standard, but tend to funnel the wind, is it possible to put opposing semi circular entries at each end or simply put two more walls in to close existing gaps, in order to stop this?

It would appear the Munda Biddi Foundation struggles in ways the Bibulman track doesn’t, does this mean cyclists are a more selfish lot than their walking contemporaries. One would hope not, lets support what some people have worked so unselfishly and tirelessly on. A small donation of time could make a huge difference over a period of time. It’s been said there is a feeling of pride in the communities where the “Bib” track passes through or close to. This same pride needs to be fostered for the “Bike Trail”.

Lastly, I would like to thank all past and present personnel that have contributed to the development and construction of the trail. This includes the guys from Karnet and their supervisor, whilst laying in dry surroundings as it pelted down with rain at Dandalup, you guys were getting the thumbs up, let me assure you.

All in all, the ride was an enjoyable experience and I hope to be able to finish the ride to Albany.

Peddle Hard…….

* Laugh Out Loud…